October 8, 2012
Eating my way through New Orleans
As usual my plans revolve around food; I managed to
entice, a couple of my foodie friends to join me in New Orleans for a night and
a day of food, drink and cigars. Arnold Gentilezza and Amadee Emanuelli, both
coworkers, but working in other locales. Arnold drove in just for dinner from
Baton Rouge and Amadee traveled from Biloxi, they met me at the Marriott Hotel
at 555 Canal Street, New Orleans, We had 7:45 reservations for dinner at the
Palace Café Dickie Brennan’s new place at 455 Canal Street just across
Chartres Street, a very short walk, practically next door to the Marriott,. We were
just a few minutes early and the hostess took us to the bar and assured us that
it would be just a few minutes, and it was, I didn’t have time to finish my
perfectly made Hendrix perfect martini.
Upstairs in the beautiful dining room we were seated at a balcony table
overlooking the bar and dining areas below, the view was outstanding; wrought
iron, columns and stained glass. A properly set table with all the necessary
hardware, servers bordering on overly attentive and their bountiful menu.
For
starters Amadee ordered Barbecued Shrimp
In a New Orleans style barbecue sauce, spiked with Abita beer, served with
Creole toasted French Bread, Arnold had the Shrimp Rémoulade Spicy boiled shrimp dressed in New Orleans
rémoulade, served in a crisp tomato cup on micro greens with herb vinaigrette and
chopped egg . I had heard so much about
the Crabmeat Cheesecake baked in a pecan crust with a wild mushroom sauté and
Creole meunière from my new friends from
Covington, Louisiana, Buddy and Annie Spell that it was a must do for me. The other
guys didn’t rave about their appetizers, saying that they were okay, but my
Crabmeat Cheesecake was outstanding the others had a taste and agreed that it
far surpassed their choices. We were offered wine or other potables but opted
for water instead. Round Two here come the entrees , the Shrimp Tchefuncte,
Very nice gulf shrimp in a Creole meunière sauce with green onions, roasted
mushrooms and popcorn rice was Amadee’s choice, Arnold opted for the Crispy Braised Pork Shank with a warm salad of crispy sweet potatoes,
bleu cheese, frisée & house made bacon, finished with a Ponchatoula
strawberry barbecue sauce and after looking at the other offerings I too ate
the “Pig Leg”, it was good and plentiful but not remarkable, Arnold and I both
shared some of the pig meat with Amadee and we shared the same opinion on the value
of the dish, okay but not memorable. Desert was offered and refused. For no
other reason other than that Arnold had to drive back to Baton Rouge, it was
early and desert wasn’t what any of us had in mind. Outside and goodbye to
Arnie, Amadee and I headed to the Royal Oyster house, Amadeee had been “jonesing”
for oysters so we headed for our desert bar at the oyster bar.
RATING ONE to
FIVE 3.25
The Royal House had been recommended, not that it is better than all of
the other Oyster Joints in the Quarter; it was the favorite place of my
Covington friends. Again just a few blocks into Vieux Carrie on the corner of
Royal and St. Louis and we needed to walk off the meal which we had finished just
an hour before. When we arrived I was sort of taken aback at the crowd at the
door, it was about eight deep, not in line but a crowd, and I was thinking “this
isn’t going to work” but Amadee pushed through the throng and told the door guy
that we just wanted to sit at the bar and with a big toothy smile “Arrow” said,
“well you gentlmens just come ooon inn,” and we did. Sitting at the end of the
bar near the service station we were greeted by another big toothy smile and I mean
GOLD toothy, Willie the Shucker, Willie Gant to be exact gave us the old home
treatment, “What’ll you gents have?” we each held up a dozen fingers and the bi-valve
mollusks were relieved of their shells and what a treat. These spectacular
morsels come from the brackish waters where the Pearl River meets the Gulf of
Mexico near the Louisiana Mississippi border, born under ideal conditions and
grown to a very respectable 2 plus inches of pure oyster meat. Willie and each
his teammates open 7 to 8 hundred of these delicacies a day, served raw on the
half shell with a little cocktail sauce and horseradish, a squeeze of lemon and
a dash of Tabasco Sauce ®, either
on a cracker or just “slurp em’” out of the shell , Deeelicious. We each finished our respective dozen and
ordered another half dozen apiece. Ummmm Good.
RATING ONE to
FIVE 3.75
Then off to
Bourbon Street to observe the wild and weird and they were in fine form for a
balmy October Saturday night, the beads were flying and the Ta Ta’s were
showing, unbelievable.
A short walk down Bourbon Street is the New Orleans
Cigar Factory; small, quaint and been there forever, one youngish guy rolling
and from what I have heard from old time rollers he won’t last because he rolls
two hundred to three hundred sticks a day, the old timers say his hands will give out. We each bought a
cigar lighted up and waked back to the Marriott. What a day, a great evening
makes.
Sunday,
October 07, 2012, for me I’m usually up a 5:30 but today I slept in until seven, made
my way to the hotel’s coffee shop for a great pot of Arabica and a plate of six
small beignets and a couple of slice strawberries. I had called my new best
friend in the NOLA foodie business Jimmy Boudreaux the reservationist at
Commanders Palace, one of New Orleans oldest and finest on Thursday of last
week and the best he could do was 1:45, well that’s sort of late to hold for
breakfast / lunch brunch but I had, had the fluffy little dough pillows
drenched in powdered sugar and sided with strawberries, enough to tied me over,
well maybe. Jimmy said to call him after 9:30 to see if he had had any
cancellations and he did, he was able to move us back to 12:30 which was
perfect. Arrived a little early and were shown the bar and at Commanders that
is a treat, you have to walk through the working kitchen and I mean working. But
it’s working like a fine timepiece and every piece is fitting together
perfectly, the hostess doesn’t let you tarry but gives you enough time to see
it in its finest. At the bar I had to have one of the signature Bloody Marys,
with the rim of the glass dusted with Commanders secret seasoning; other than
the traditional salting they rim the glass with a Cajun seasoning plus other
herbs and spices, the only one that stands out in my mind is the oregano. Another
hostess arrives and puts our drinks on a tray so we can’t spill them as she
shows us to our table. What can I say,
”this is Commander’s Palace” exquisite; our
wait staff was made up of three first
class waiters, Jon, Woody and Patrick; they catered to our every need,
explained every item which we asked about, and moved in and out without “hovering” . When my Bloody Mary was exhausted
I ordered a Sazarac Cocktail, it came perfect, yesterday when I arrive at the
hotel I ordered one and sent it back, too sweet
For our first course Amadee ordered the Turtle Soup A Commander’s classic ~ Finished
tableside with a splash of sherry and I ordered
the Oyster
& Absinthe “Dome” Poached
briny Gulf oysters with bacon, artichokes, tarragon, cream, and a splash of
Parisian absinthe ~ Presented
under a flaky pastry shell . Astonishing, unreal , delicious. For
Entrees I chose the Shrimp and Grits, I have had this dish prepared at the home
of friends who are well versed in the culinary arts, I have had them in the
Carolina Low Country, in Savannah and in
Texas but these were the best ever. Amadee selected the Lobster Truffel, I tasted
it was delectable. We both followed the dinner with their Bread Pudding topped
with the whisky sauce and then possibly the best cup of coffee I have ever had,
Amadee being from Puerto Rico a coffee producing area and grew up with connoisseurs
of their native bean is somewhat of a
coffee expert and explained the process of making and roasting the beans and
talked about the Alto Grande coffees which was the favorite of his family.
You think
that’s perfect, well we asked about the possibility of smoking a cigar and were
taken to a private garden patio, filled with sub-tropical plants, tables with
ashtrays and served a 20 year old Warres tawny port, enjoyed
two of my birthday H. Upman selects, we were cordially greeted by kitchen and
wait staff who were taking “smoke breaks” . Before leaving were joined by Steve Woodruff who is the Operations
Manager for Commander’s Palace as well as Café Adelaide, and told some of the
history of the “Brennan’s “ family of restaurants
RATING ONE to
FIVE 5.00
Ratings are based on: Ambiance, Value, Expectation, Service,
Quality
-o-